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The mafia is more than just spaghetti and guns: it is, in a sense, the black market, although something much more dangerous. It’s where drugs, sex, toxic waste deposits and illegal labor are sold upon violence. These activities have led to high levels of murder all over the country. 30% of Italy’s economy is reported to be underground black economy, or in other words part of this dangerous mafia affair.
The mafia is something very painful, disgraceful and even embarrassing for most Italians: rarely spoken about and most definitely despised across the nation. What many people don’t know is that there are different mafia gangs all across the country (also spreading internationally, especially in America). The most famous (as we know it) is the Sicilian mafia-Cosa Nostra (or Our Thing). Then to name a few: Sacra Corona Unita (United Sacred Crown) from Puglia; ‘Ndrangheta (there isn’t really a direct translation, but more or less means “Courageous Men”) from the region of Calabria; lastly, the Neapolitan Camorra, the oldest and largest criminal organization in Italy.
In 2005, an Italian man named Roberto Saviano (who now is on the run from the Camorra) decided to expose the mafia and their activity to the rest of the world. Saviano witnessed a lot of Mafia activity and documents his findings in the book “Gomorrah” (The title is a reference to the biblical cities Sodom and Gomorrah. Paralleling Mafia areas to the destroyed cities of the Bible). I am currently reading the book and it is so interesting to learn about the violence that is rapidly deteriorating the country I live in.
Anyway, If you have the time I suggest you to read the book or watch the movie to get a better understanding of the real mafia. Both works are beautiful and terrifying at the same time. The matter is truly eye-opening and more close to home than you think.
Trailer to the movie:
(another cool fact: The major part of this movie is spoken in Napoletano (the dialect of Naples) so even Italians that aren’t from the area have to watch the movie with subtitles because they don’t understand the unique dialect.)
Sorry for the lack of seriously lame jokes in this post, but I thought I would share something a little bit more intellectual than the dimensions of my refrigerator or why I wear wet clothes to school, just to show you I'm not a complete academic failure.
The lock on my apartment’s door is as strong as a toothpick. And there is no double bolt. I'm not scared of the Mafia.
Mal
So since everybody is still wondering whether I’m homeless or not, I’ve (against my will) decided to share the tale of my apartment search. I’ll explain the dreadful experience now…but then lock it away forever….in a few minutes you will understand why.
My first 7 days in Italy were not spent savoring vino, olive oil and gelato or sharing my American flair with the Italian stallions I one day will marry…they were spent hopelessly searching for a place to live for the year. The process is something I am happy to say I will never have to endure again, but in retrospect was probably one of the coolest things I will have done here. Props to BCSP for FULL ON IMMERSION.
The way apartments work in Bologna is very different than how we do things at home. For example: last October two friends and I signed a contract 10 months before we were to move in. We went through every single step: how much everything was going to cost, how everything works, and our parents had to sign it etc. etc. etc. (Actually, I just started the process again for next year…yeah ABBIE woot woot. Thanks to my wonderful friends that did all the work for me. I love you and I will make delicious pasta for you next year). In Italy, as you can probably imagine, it doesn’t quite work that way. Students come to Bologna about a month…or even less…before classes start and search for an apartment.
Honestly, with all the technology that we have these days, I would call the process kind of primitive and completely disorganized(no offense Italy). Realtors and “student housing” don’t really exist here. (Obviously realtors exist but not for students; as we have Steve Brown Apts. or like C.H.T. housing in Madison). Instead, handwritten or typed flyers line every single building, trash bin, bridge and pigeon in Bologna. Usually the people that post the flyers are people that live in the apartment and are in search of a roommate. So, what you do is look around the city…find flyers that look good to you. Call the number on the flyer, set up a time to meet the person on the other end and see their apartment. Sounds easy, right? Psht, yeah right.
I was terrified. Legitimately sick I was so nervous. I’ve never really gone apartment shopping before in the U.S. let alone in Italy, speaking a language that still isn’t easy for me. So, after wandering aimlessly through the streets of Bologna searching for the perfect apartment (or rather the perfect apartment advertisement)…or maybe convincing myself that living in the hotel for a year was completely acceptable, I finally built up the courage to call Gianfranco, the owner of an ad that literally covered every single building. Dude must have spent 5 grand on flyers. So…my trembling hands picked up the phone and called him:
(Obviously, I translated this to English for you non-bilingual idiots)
“Pronto?”
“Pronto…ciao, I saw your ad and I would like to see your apartment. I’m a student from the US studying here for a year”
“Sure! I will be home in 5 minutes, can you come then?”
“Yes! See you then.”
Woooo….easy enough. He sounded so NICE! All of my fears escaped me and I skipped on to his apartment which is situated in the CUTEST area. I was already imagining myself making delicious Italian delicacies with my new (attractive and obviously buff) roommate Gianfranco. I found the building and immediately fell in love with the place. The huge cherry-wood doors, bronze door knobs and marble stairs were exactly what I was looking for. I decided at that moment, I was going to take the apartment if I liked it, which obviously, I was going to.
…Then Guido-man Gianfranco emerged from the corner, holding worlds largest takeout bag from MacDonalds. If the jorts didn’t immediately turn me off then it was the inch thick chain he wore around his neck or maybe the way his sweat stained wife beater clung to his fupa. I don’t know.
He started to explain the apartment. I would have a single (NICE). I would share a bathroom with only one other girl (NICE). There would be 3 other girls living with me (Meaning Gianfranco wouldn’t be my roommate! Yes. I’m reconsidering). Fast internet, nice kitchen, washer, great location, terrace…everything was shaping up. The overly-gelled proprietor was redeeming himself.
I walked into the apartment, expecting little doves to fly out of it and an orchestra to commence. Well not really…eh it was okay. There was no living room, but the kitchen and terrace were huge. I could deal with that.
Now it all depended on my roommates and my single.
Marta, one of the roommates was the only one that was there. She came to greet me. I shook her hand and all I could focus on was the soaking wet palm that contacted mine. Girl was on some sort of crack. She didn’t even say a word to me. Hell no can I deal with a sweaty crackhead. Ok, relax Mal. I kicked myself out of my paranoia…
Ok now time to see the room, at his point I was ready to get the hell out of Gianfranco’s hell house…but then he showed me where I could potentially live. Up about 10 adorable oak stairs was a cute (from the looks of it) room. I scanned it…ok, hospital looking bed, no light, but there was a skylight. OBSESSED. It lit up the whole room and had a beautiful look to the bright blue sky above.
“What’s your budget?” Asks Gianfranco
I replied…”I don’t know around 400?”
“Ok 400 it is do you want it?”
Jesus Christ man, let me think about it for a second. So negatives: Mafia looking guido proprietor and crack addicted perspiring roommate. And the positives: SKYLIGHT….well then it dawned on me. Gianfranco works with the guys that take Shannon from LOST ..(you know the one that runs without moving her arms) from Liam Neeson and throws her into the sex trafficking industry. Seeing as Bob Warner isn’t quite as knowledgeable in this particular area of expertise as Liam, I had to say no thank you.
“So? What do you think?”
“No thank you Gianfranco. I WILL NOT be living in that prison cell that offers easy access to my sleeping self in the middle of the night through the skylight by the Gypsies that are going to take me and sell me to Albanians. Enjoy your McDonald’s Guido-man.”
And that was my first housing experience.
….really. That was EXACTLY what happened. I didn’t over exaggerate at all.
Here are brief synopsizes of a few other apartments I looked at:
Paola—Paola’s apartment was really nice. A bit outside the city than I wanted to be. I would have my own room with two twin beds in it, everything was new and decorated nicely. The only thing was that Paola was a chain-smoker. The house reeked of smoke and quite frankly looked like The Legends of the Hidden Temple with all the lingering smoke around. So I ixed her…sorry girlfriend.
Sylvia—Sylvia was the proprietor of a cute apartment. The place had two rooms and an adorable kitchen. Sylvia lived in an apartment that connected to the one she was renting out. Sylvia was such a DIVA. She was wearing this silky pink robe (that looked like it was made for a queen) and had this great perfume on that basically just smelled like money and diamonds. I want to be her. Anyway, I had noticed a bunch of homeless people outside of the apartment on the way and asked her about the safety of the area. She replied “Oh yeah there is a soup-kitchen right across the street. But it’s really safe. They’re has only been one murder on my block since I’ve lived here.” ….oh is that so?
3 Swiss guys-This was one of my favorite apartments because of the people that lived there. Yeah, it was 3 guys. Mom and Dad were not too happy about that one. But they were all so nice and very interesting. They were also very clean. I really wanted the apartment, but unfortunately (to my parents delight) they chose someone else.
I think I looked at a total of 9 apartments before finally settling on the one I live in now.
I LOVE IT. I live exactly in the center of the city. The apartment was just redone a few years ago. It has dark cherry wood floors. I have my own room with two twin beds in it (one that I have turned into a couch). I have 2 roommates. Sylvana is 32 and writes freelance and Laura is 26 and is in the process of getting her P.H.D. in Philosophy (so smart.). They have been really great to me so far and SPEAK NO ENGLISH. Which is great, so I’m forced to speak in Italian always. Even though they are a few years older than me….we get along great and still have interesting conversations with eachother.
So that was that. My apartment search was COMPLETED. I guess it wasn’t as bad as it could have been. But I’M SO GLAD IT’S OVER and I have a place to call HOME SWEET HOME
If you would ever want to send me a letter, or like a Qdoba burrito in the mail you can send it to me at:
Mallory Warner
c/o Laura La Bella
Via San Vitale 18
CAP 40125 Bologna (BO)
(make sure not to insure it because then I have to pay a ton….and I’m broke)
I still cringe every time I see the name Gianfranco.
Mals
ps. i will upload photos a) once my technicologicallyeiobahy-challanged-self can figure it out and b) once i clean my room :-)
YOU DON’T UNDERSTAND HOW HARD IT’S BEEN TO POST THIS. The internet decides when it wants to work…usually when I’m wasting my time facebook stalking random people I haven’t even met. And then it decides to break when I’m A) trying to post on my blog B) when I’m trying to study for Benevolo’s lame exam C) when I’m trying to watch GLEE (aka my treasure or crack-cocaine whatever you want to call it. I can’t live without it. It was a horrible day when I had to wait an HOUR for it to download.)
Now that I’ve torn apart Italian culture (my previous post) from my Gringo-perspective…It’s only fair to make a list about what I’ve already fallen in love with. I only wrote 10 but trust me, you will hear about many more things that have made my experience already amazing.
1. Italian
…But really, Italian comes easier for me after every day and I’m beginning to love the rhythm, sound and structure of the language more and more. Sometimes I’ll hear people speaking in passing, and I’ll swear I’ve heard English…but then I turn around and see the greased hair and tight white pants and realize I couldn’t have been English…I just understood Italian!
2. History
3. Aperativi—probably the best thing ever invented.
“While obviously I don’t appreciate getting cat-called by 60 year old Italian men with no teeth when I’m walking to class, some Italian boys definitely know how to treat girls and appreciate them.
7. Coffee
God’s gift to man. Buses and trains…they are my yellow brick road. My free trip to Atlantis. Love that it only costs me 4 to get to IKEA (where I am reimbursed) so essentially free. Love that it only costs me 10 to get to Florence…even if that let’s me chill at the stazione at 4:35 in the morning, with a fever, fearing that I’m going to get kidnapped by Bin Ladin. Whatever. America…get with it. Trains are the new Range Rovers baby. Here in Europe we ride in style.
Just kidding Dad, kind of. Even though the Euro is a lot like Monopoly money to me, it makes a lot more sense than American money. Having 2 and 1 Euro coins is borderline brilliant. Also, Euros maintain crispy, unlike the Green that becomes soft and disgusting to the point you can feel the germs crawl all over it. But money goes fast here…I’ve started to write down everything I’m spending because I’m “responsible”. We’ll see how this goes.
Italians refrigerate their bananas. It’s brilliant. They are so smart.
I still bleed Red White and Blue,
Mally
Here is my list of the 10 things I already miss about home…
1. Walgreen's—there really is no such thing as convenience here.
1. They all close at like 5. Puhleaze… tell me what I’m supposed to do at 9pm when I need my reese’s fix.
2. I want to buy my lotion at the same store I buy my toothpaste, is that too much to ask?
3.There are really no choices in these kinds of stores unless you want to splurge and spend $50 on face lotionà one kind of cheap shampoo, one kind of cheap lotion, one kind of cheap mascara. Being a girl has never been so hard!
2. Free Water.
We’ll just get this out of the way: Jumbo glasses are so American. AND I’M ABSOLUTELY OKAY WITH IT. Glasses here fit like 10 tablespoons of water. Sometimes I would really appreciate more than 5 sips of water
….actually, sometimes I would really appreciate 5 sips of FREE water. Most restaurants don’t serve tap water, so you have to buy a 3-4 euro bottle of water, that runs out in like 4 minutes. By the time the bill comes you have had 10 bottles of water and now owe the restaurant 1,000 euro just to stay hydrated. Kill me for trying to get my daily requirement of H2O.
And what the f-bomb is this FRIZZANTE water stuff?
3. Chester's....you know who you are if you know what Chester's is.
On the same food tangent, if you know me at all you know I miss buffalo wings, Qdoba, cheesecurds (duh), summer sausage, Dad’s fajitas, salmon and Mom’s chocolate chip cookies. (I’m attempted to make chocolate chip cookies soon, but my Gringo-self failed to find sugar at the grocery store. They must sell it at the pharmacy…)
4. Salad as an entree--My new Italian diet has consisted of: pasta, pizza, gelato, focaccia, fried bread, pasta, bread, cheese in ridiculous quantities, kebaP (kebabs) taralli, gelato…. Etc. etc. etc.
While I’m sure all you fatties are all jealous of my daily cuisine, I'm already feeling those Italian carbs stick to my hips and I’m in major need of boosting my metabolism and blasting my fat. (Jillian Michaels reference…gphi girls, Whoever has my Jillian DVD mail it to me! Obesity could be an issue.) Don’t worry Mom, I’m joining a gym next week.
5. Tall boys. that don't wear skin tight (white) jeans. And Dolce and Gabana—enough said.
6. 3G and a full keyboard on a phone—my cell phone, born circa 1995, makes texts that look like this:
youOnt beLIevee whausr happE nd. w her e R u. wE n eeeed tO t aLk.
For those unable to decode, I believe I meant to say:
You won’t believe what just happened. Where are you? We need to talk.
(This was a message I actually sent—inevitably an Italian emergency. )
Anyway, I’m in the process of learning to Jailbreak my iPhone so I can use it here, but my technologically challenged brain and snail-like internet connection are seriously ruining this possibility. I mean, I could buy a new iPhone here if I wanted to spend the 600 euro…like EVERY single other person in Europe whose iPhone is glued to the hands. Or I could buy the new 500 euro PRADA phone that apparently every Italian wants. Too bad it looks like one of those plastic phones that dispenses PEZ...I say keep making bags Prada, I don't think your cell phones are any good.
7. Cheap Beer like Keystone Light....just kidding. But not really.
Even though Italy isn't necessarily known for its great beer, we've indulged in a few types of beer. Moretti and Peroni are probably the 2 most popular Italian beers. You can get them at home, but they taste way better here. We’ve also had our fair share of Beck’s, Guinness, Harp and a few others.
Obviously, I miss Miller Lite to, but I would trade any Miller goodness for the best social grant ever: Drinking on the streets. No such thing as an open container law… so now that I sound like a drunk, let me explain myself. Students, who can’t afford 8euro beers at the bar, can get a few at the grocery store for cheap and enjoy them while walking around. It’s not uncommon to see people walking down the street while daintily sipping or (chugging) bottles of delicious beer at any hour of the day (but usually the people that are doing it before noon are homeless men dragging around their mangy dogs)—something that I definitely can get used to (granted I turn 21 someday….screw that law too.)
BUT yes, I will miss playing beer pong and flip cup with cheap beer. These games don’t exist here…although, I am determined to teach them my expertise.
8. Buying pens in bulk. (In fact, buying anything in bulk.)
Dear all American College students,
Take advantage of being able to buy a 24 pack of pens for 3 dollars. Here the average (crap) pen costs about 2.50 Euro which is around 3-4 dollars. Its bizarre but you can’t buy pens in packs…you only buy them individually. Notebooks cost 6 Euro (around 9 dollars). So I now have 3 pens (one blue, black and red), and 1 notebook. (I couldn’t afford a pencil.)
Don’t you dare ask to borrow my pens.
There is no such thing as Costco, Target or Wal-mart (where am I supposed to get my gallon sized hummus I occasionally manage to finish in a week!!) The closest thing Italy has to these wonderful stores is IKEA, which is pretty much a death sentence if you decide to go. I’ve managed to go twice and just barely made it out alive both times. (But that story will come at a later date…let’s just leave it at this: organization isn’t quite a priority for Italians.)
9. Ice.
I’m already sick of drinking warm water, warm soda and semi-warm cocktails. If you order a cocktail at the bar you get like 3 ice cubes, ¾ alcohol and ¼ mixer. Now I’m not complaining about the amount of alcohol they put in my drink, but sometimes it’s hard to choke down room temperature gin with only a splash of tonic…It’s time I become their John Smith of our time, and teach them a few more western civilization tricks: aka Frozen Water. Once they have an icy cold drink, they will never go back.
Other things I’ve managed to discover: fridges don’t have ice makers, fridges are kept warmer here (aka my yogurt is never cold) and the fridges are way smaller...like midget size.
10. English.
For example:
-I have to get the bus at 12.
-I have to take the bus at 12.
-I have to grab the bus at 12.
-I have to jump on the bus at 12.
-I have to hop on the bus at 12.
Then obviously the “I have” part can be substituted with “I’ve got” or “I gotta”, but that’s beside the point.
Sorry for the bad example…but what’s cool about English is that you can say any one of those examples (and probably more) and somebody completely understands what you’re saying. In Italian there really is only one way to say it, or people will think you are literally going to JUMP on the bus. Again, bad example but hopefully you catch my drift.
This has made me come to realize that English speakers more commonly express individuality and personality through their words. (When I was apartment searching literally everyone that showed me their apartment described the area in which they lived in as “una zona tranquilla”—or a safe and quiet area. In English I doubt EVERY person would describe it in that way.) Anyway, when I am able to come up with more examples for this STROKE OF BRILLIANCE I’ll be able to explain my findings better. But for now…
Mallory Warnerà Mah-low-ree Vahr-nehr
An online forumà Un four-oom oun-liine-uh
Beauty Caseà be-oo-tee kay-sah
Scannerà lo-SkahNN-Nair-uh
(These are English words understood and used in the Italian language…minus my name…and their Italian “pronunciations”)
Well this finishes the list of things I miss!